Like many people, I can be a creature of habit. Once I find something I like, I stick with it. And since I rarely go out to eat these days, the list of tried and true favorites is short and sweet. It took me a while, but I finally have a new place to add to the list. Believe it or not, in just a few months’ time, it has a secured a spot near the very top. A new place, a fast favorite. There, I said it.

Located on the water’s edge, He’eia Pier General Store & Deli seems like an unlikely venue for an upscale, gourmet plate lunch. Away from town and seemingly in the middle of nowhere, when viewed from a distance, the tiny building looks a bit worn and weathered. Take a closer look. Peek inside the kitchen and you will see the chef and the rest of the staff hard at work. Moments of seriousness are punctuated with bursts of frenetic energy, this is where all the deliciousness comes from.

Open since the middle of May, He’eia Pier has brought a unique, and welcome, spin to the ubiquitous plate lunch. Here macaroni salad is made substantial with the addition of cubes of locally grown kalo (taro), while barbecue chicken is given a greater depth of flavor with a bright and slightly sweet guava marinade. Want brown rice? Check. What about tossed salad? Make that local organic greens from MA`O Organic Farms.

Guava chicken, kalo mac salad

The beef used here is sourced from Kuahiwi Ranch located in Ka’u on the island of Hawaii. Topped with housemade thousand island dressing, the burger is flavorful, juicy and satisfying. If you’re daring enough, try the “Cheekeater”. It’s not on the menu, but it’s a burger that’s topped with three different “proteins” — usually Spam, Portuguese sausage and bacon — along with an over-easy egg. It’s sinful and addicting. You won’t have another burger like it. Trust me.

“The Cheekeater”, kalo mac salad

If there is fish on the menu, you can be sure that it was caught in the waters surrounding the pier. O’io is made into fishcake and is served up on a bun or in a bowl, loco moco-style; ahi is mixed into poke and heaped atop a bowl of rice; aku is lightly seared and coated in teriyaki sauce before being tossed with sprigs of purslane; while mahi mahi is pan-roasted and garnished with a fresh cherry tomato salsa. The preparations are varied and unique. The flavors are a quiet marriage of the familiar with a twist of something new and often, unexpected.

Pan-roasted mahimahi, Ho Farms “salsa”, kalo mac salad

If you find yourself on the Windward side of the island, do yourself a favor and make it a point to stop at He’eia Pier General Store & Deli. Tasty, honest food prepared with a whole lot of heart is what you’ll find here. Fresh ingredients, interesting preparations and service with aloha are reasons that will keep you coming back.

He’eia Pier General Store & Deli
46-499 Kamehameha Highway
Telephone: 808.235.2192
website

Follow @heeiapier

Last night, I was fortunate enough to have been invited to attend a preview dinner for The Pig and the Lady pop-up that will take over the Kakaako location of Hank’s Haute Dogs 4 nights a week beginning on June 28. This pop-up is a collaboration between former Chef Mavro sous chef, Andrew Le, and one of my favorite local food writers, Martha Cheng.

The cuisine served at this preview dinner takes its inspiration from Southeast Asia, gravitating specifically towards Vietnam. The bold, robust flavors combine delicate herbs with an array of spices, to form an intricate layering of taste sensations. Other elements come into play in the dishes served here as well.

nairagi sashimi, Asian pear, water lily herb, banana blossom, toasted rice puffs, lemongrass; maitake mushroom, jicama, pickled lotus root, jasmine rice croquette, curry

Nairagi (striped marlin) sashimi is topped with a banana blossom salad, crisp batons of Asian pear, and puffs of toasted rice and is accented by a swirl of lemongrass sauce. The mildly flavored fish, proved to be the perfect canvas for the faintly sweet and lightly floral notes present in the dish; while a subtle, yet lingering heat, provided some much needed balance.

Next, spheres of jasmine rice were coated in breadcrumbs, fried until golden brown, then set in a pool of curry. These Southeast Asian “arancini” were wonderfully fragrant and had great texture; crunchy on the outside and slightly creamy inside. The accompanying vegetables – fingerling potatoes, pickled lotus root, maitake mushrooms – made this a deconstructed bowl of curry rice.

roasted pork, betelnut leaves, watermelon, dragon fruit, ginger, nước mắm; phở, handcut noodles, brisket, tendon

A medallion of pork tenderloin arrived next, wrapped in betel leaf and served with a dollop of watermelon and dragon fruit “salad” and a pungent sauce seasoned with nước mắm and ginger. The tenderloin was slightly overcooked, but I enjoyed the bitter, peppery flavor imparted by the betel leaf. The salad of watermelon and dragon fruit, was light and refreshing, cutting through much of the dish’s richness.

The final savory course was simply a bowl of phở. A handful of hand-cut noodles were swimming in a bowl of broth topped with chunks of brisket and tendon and garnished with sliced onion, cilantro, green onion and a wedge of lime. This was the most straightforward dish of the evening and the light, yet beefy broth was the star, resulting in a most excellent bowl of phở.

toast, coconut pandan curd, thai basil; the handwritten menu

After a short time, we received a tall glass of cà phê sữa đá and dessert. The toast was slathered with a thick coconut pandan custard and layered with lychee halves and Thai basil leaves. A scoop of vanilla ice cream dusted in coconut powder and a lilikoi and basil seed sauce complete the dish. This was a sweet and satisfying way to end the meal.

Based on the dishes served, I would like to come back in a few weeks to see how the menu has evolved. A few of the dishes could be refined and presented with more focus, but all in all, the concept and flavors speak for themselves. Good luck to Andrew, Martha and the rest of The Pig and the Lady crew in the weeks ahead.

The Pig and The Lady @ Hank’s Haute Dogs
324 Coral St
website

Follow @pigandthelady

Related links:
Biting Commentary Honolulu Magazine, John Heckathorn
The Weekly Eater Honolulu Star Advertiser, Nadine Kam

A few months ago, I was fortunate enough to be invited to a private dinner that was cooked, and served, in the kitchen at KCC’s Ka ‘Ikena Dining Room. It was an amazing experience. Our chef for the evening was the talented Chris Kajioka, former chef de cuisine at Roy’s Waikiki.

ikura, pomme puree, Korean watercress; opakapaka

A couple of the dishes were repeats from an earlier dinner, but I was happy to taste them here again. A standout for me this time was a crudo of opakapaka (Hawaiian pink snapper).

bacon and eggs;

cold foie gras with fall flavors

magret de canard à la Saint-Clair; grilled cheese with quince

When I started this blog almost 7 years ago, my main goal was to showcase Hawaii’s unique culinary offerings. Little did I know that all these years later, I would end up meeting someone that I had gotten to know though her own blog. On her first visit to Hawaii, I got to meet up with Seattle food blogger, Seattle Bon Vivant, once for a late dinner on a Sunday evening. On this more recent visit, I was determined to bring her to one of my favorite restaurants, town.

Located in the heart of Kaimuki, on the corner of Waialae and 9th Avenues, town is probably the finest expression of the “locavore” movement in the Honolulu restaurant dining scene. Chef/owner Ed Kenney, works with folks like MA`O Organic Farms and Kuahiwi Ranch to source only the finest local ingredients for the restaurant. Since the ingredients are being showcased on the plate, the preparations tend to be simple with flavors borrowed from the Mediterranean.

mozzarella, grilled eggplant, spring onion, cassava, basil; Kuahiwi flatiron steak, market lettuces, radish, butter milk

The menu here at town changes daily and depends largely on what’s available that day at the market. So what I eat today, will probably not be available to order tomorrow. That’s okay though. There is always something on the menu for everyone. After a quick review of the day’s offerings, we decided to start with a small selection of appetizers.

Here, soft chunks of fresh mozzarella were tossed with smokey slices of charred eggplant and garnished with crunchy cassava chips and basil; sweet, crisp lettuces and paper-thin shavings of peppery radishes were coated with tangy butter milk and paired with tender pieces of flatiron; while a bed of luscious sliced persimmon was topped with shards of almonds, ribbons of prosciutto and a lightly dressed mound of baby kale.

Hashimoto Farms persimmon, prosciutto, baby kale, almonds, mint; gnocchi , Jeanne’s squash, sage brown butter

The gnocchi is a personal favorite and if it is on the menu, a must order. Pillowy and as light as air, the gnocchi melts away as soon as it hits your tongue. Served lightly coated with sage-infused brown butter and tender nuggets of squash, it was certainly soul-satisfying. To accompany the gnocchi, we decided on a plate of grilled baby corn seasoned with smoked paprika.

Hamanalo baby corn, smoked paprika; salted chocolate pretzel tart

To finish, it was the chocolate tart garnished with bits of pretzel and a healthy dusting of salt. Salt? Yes, salt. The flecks of salt actually helped to coax a subtle sweetness out of the bitter chocolate. It was definitely a pleasant, ending to an amazing evening.

“Local first, organic whenever possible, with Aloha always” is town’s motto and it certainly shows. Fresh, well-prepared food sourced from local purveyors, exceptional service and a welcoming atmosphere makes town a must visit.

town
3435 Waialae Ave
Telephone: 808.735.5900
website

Follow @edstown

It’s funny how things have a way of working themselves out, especially when you least expect it. Quite sometime ago I came across a well written blog that I found to be insightful and approachable. There were ruminations on haute cuisine from San Francisco and New York and well written reflections on working within the restaurant industry. The author was obviously a cook and a few months into the blog, I learned that he was working at a local Roy’s Restaurant. Other than that, the author(s) of the blog was mysterious, only going by the initials of CK and PH. Then a little less than a year after it was started, it had ended; the final post contained musings on the 2009 Michelin guides for New York and the San Francisco Bay Area.

All was forgotten until a few months ago when I happened to find this chef on Twitter. Luckily, he was open to starting a dialogue with me and that led to this special dinner. The date and time was quickly arranged and joining me at the table that evening were Lesa, Dale and Tamara. It was an amazing evening filled with great food and conversation.

Squash, marcona almond butter, celery; Ikura cured in bonito, “Robuchon” pomme purée, Korean watercress

The dishes served at dinner were prepared using a combination of classic French and modern cooking techniques infused with local ingredients and Asian flavors – a revitalization and reworking of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, if you will. Each plate balanced flavor and texture with artful presentation that was subdued yet visually appealing.

One of the dishes that best showcased this was the ikura cured in bonito with “Robuchon” pomme purée and Korean watercress. Luxuriously creamy with a silky mouthfeel, the buttery-flavored pomme purée was topped with a healthy sprinkling of ikura that had been cured with bonito and dashi, giving this dish a savory and slightly smoky aroma and flavor. Tiny “chips” made of the potato skin offered some crunch while the Korean watercress leaves added a pop of color and a mildly vegetal bite.

Black cod, kabocha, grapes, soy-lemon nage; “bacon and eggs”

Another highlight of the evening was “bacon and eggs”. When I saw those words written on the menu, my mind started to race trying to figure out how the dish would be served. When it arrived at the table, I think I let out a chuckle as it was a lot more literal than I had anticipated. The egg was cooked sous vide, allowing the white to be just barely set; a thin veil enveloping the unctuous yolk. A light dusting of chives over the egg helped cut through the inherent richness, while the slices of bacon provided the salt needed to round out the dish.

Moi “cuit et cru”, bok choy, orange, miso; Big Island hirame roasted on the bone, matsutake beurre noisette

Moi “cuit et cru”, or cooked and raw, with bok choy, orange and miso was the dish I was most intrigued by. How were both the cooked and raw states achieved using a single piece of fish? The delicately flavored and tender fleshed fish was cooked until the skin side was crisp while keeping the “fleshy” side closer to its raw state. It was served surrounded by a pool of lightly flavored miso broth and garnished with ribbons of finely julienned bok choy, orange supremes and a smattering of diced red pepper.

Tongue “cuit d’espice pastrami”, red wine ‘kraut’, “1000 island reduction”; Brandt Farm veal cheek, onions, persimmon, Tokyo turnip

Another standout was the veal cheek. This is one dish that isn’t usually seen on local restaurant menus and I was happy to see it prepared and presented so simply here. Veal cheeks are probably one of the most tender and succulent cuts of meat, if cooked long and slow, as this obviously was. Served with its own jus, the accompanying onions and turnips provided a hint of texture and flavor, while the persimmon purée helped to cut through the rich, deep flavors.

If you ever have the opportunity like this, you probably wouldn’t want to pass it up. I can only thank the chef for preparing such a stunning meal for us. This was one of the better meals that I had enjoyed all year and one that will be remembered for quite sometime.

Roy’s Waikiki
226 Lewers Street
Telephone: 808.923.7697

Follow @royswaikiki

Star Noodle at dusk

Thoughts to come….

Nori wrapped mochiko chicken with ko chu jang mayo; Watercress salad – tako, cuttlefish, konbu, onion, tomato, sesame sambal dressing

Steamed pork buns – pressed pork, hoisin, shiitake, cucumber; Star ramen – rich pork broth, roast pork, poached egg, bamboo shoots

Kim chee ramen – kim chee dashi, roast pork, bean sprouts, kim chee; Malasadas – a trio served with chocolate, butterscotch caramel sauce & peanuts for dipping

Star Noodle
268 Kupuohi Street
Lahaina
Telephone: 808.667.5400
website

Follow @starnoodle

Taiwanese-style shave ice with assorted toppings

City Cafe
1518-F Makaloa Street
Telephone: 808.398.7598

Fried chicken & waffle with brown gravy; Waffle eggs Benedict with home fries

Pancakes & Waffles
City Square Shopping Center
1284 Kalani Street Suite D100
Phone: 808.847.7770

Catfish with hush puppies, vegetarian black-eyed pea chili, MA`O collard greens, buttermilk cilantro cole slaw; Buttermilk fried chicken, vegetarian black-eyed pea chili, MA`O collard greens, buttermilk cilantro cole slaw, cornbread

Soul
3040 Waialae Avenue
Telephone: 808.735.7685
website

Follow @pacificsoul

When I first started blogging a little more than 6 years ago, my main goal was to eat my way around town in hopes of showing people what Hawaii had to offer. After the first year or so, real life took a turn for the worse and my free time pretty much vanished. I was still eating, but doing very little writing.

There were numerous attempts to get this blog going again, but with each attempt, there was a set back. I hit a low point when I received a comment from a reader that really struck a chord in me. You can read about it here. I started to question myself and what I was doing. Did I even want to keep this blog going and did I really want to start writing again?

In the meantime, I had the opportunity to sample some of the best food that the world has to offer at places like Manresa in Los Gatos, Ubuntu in Napa, Tetsuya’s in Sydney, Pierre Gagnaire in Paris, Alinea in Chicago, St John in London and The Fat Duck in Bray. Dining in these restaurants really gave me a fresh perspective on food and dining out; on eating in and cooking at home; and shopping at the local grocery store and at my local farmer’s market.

Late last year, I became active on Twitter and started connecting with all types of people. It was fascinating to finally have real dialogue with others that enjoyed food just as much as I did, in a truly meaningful and dynamic way. I met local chefs and farmers, food writers and food bloggers. The conversations opened my eyes to what was here all along, and what is essentially at the heart of this blog. My love of food.

When I started blogging back in 2004, there were just a handful of food bloggers out there, with just a small handful of us here in Hawaii. I had often thought of organizing a get together, but it never happened for one reason or another. Until now.

Kathy, from A Passion for Food, was going to be returning home to Hawaii for a visit with family and joining her was going to be Robyn from The Girl Who Ate Everything. I had long been a fan of both blogs, so it was essentially a once in a lifetime opportunity to meet them both here at the same time. Rounding out our group would be Alan from ma`ona and Pomai from The Tasty Island. Due to a mix up with the dates, Pomai was unable to join us.

TBC…

A

B

C

D

Sous vide watermelon & umeshu, lime granite; Azuki panna cotta, matcha sorbet, tapioca pearls, kuri tuile

Creme de mascarpone, honey caviar, almond EVOO crumble, passion coulis, shiso syrup; Pistachio ice cream, coconut foam, carmelized goma

Gianduja cremoso, peanut praline powder, frozen raspberry bits, cacao nibs; Espresso snow, sweet milk, cardamom ice cream, financier crisps

Thank you to Robyn for the photos from Town. I am hoping to finish this post soon.